Sewing-machine.



C. A. DEARBORN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED 050.15.1914.

Patented July 20, 1915.

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c. DEARBORN. SEWING MACHINE. I APPLICATION FILED DEC-{15' 19M.

Patented July 20, 1915.

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UWIVILIHIHIH'VII 6. A. DEARBORNL SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATIdN map DEC.15. 1914,

1,147,486.. Pa tentedJuly 20,1915." I

5 SHEETS'SHEET 3v.

c. A. DEARBORN." SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION HLEb m-zc. 15.1914. 1,147,46. Patented July 20,1915.

5-SHEETS-SHEET51 a citizen of the United States, residing in theCHARLESA. DEAR/BORN, OF NEW YORK, i i-Y,

SEWING-MACHINE. i ii Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented July 20,1915.

Application filed December 15, 1914. Serial No. 877,339.

' To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CHARLES A. DEARBORN,

borough of Manhattan, city, county, and State of New York, have inventedcertain new and'useful Improvements in Sewing-5' Machines, of which thefollowing is a full and clear specification.

The present invention is an improvement upon the machinecovered by anapplication filed by me on October 7th, 1914, Serial No. 865,514, and incommon with the machine of said application, hasfor its primary pur-'pose the sewing of what are commonly known as turned seams, such as areformed upon the finished edges of coats and other garments. a v v In thepreparation of a turned seam, as

heretofore commonly practised, the tailor manipulates the seam edge ofthe work by bending and rolling it'back and forth between his thumb andfingers, while pressing upon the seam to bring the turned seam outwardlyas near as possible to the turned back edges of the upper and lowerlayers of cloth,-

and while holding the manipulated work he bastes it along the turnededges preparatory to the final stitching operation.

The'machine of the present invention is designed to rapidly andaccurately perform the same work as that heretofore done entirely byhand. In accomplishing the desired result, I provide a sewing machinehaving the customary stitch forming and feeding mechanisms with a pairof cloth engaging plates or fingers disposed so as to engage the workabove and below. and provided with operating mechanism for rapidlyreciproeating them transversely of the line of feed, while in engagementwith the ,work to cause rolled back and forth upon'theturned seam 1and-be gradually "worked awayfrom the :seam which will be presented at:the extreme edge, of the turned upper and lower layers. In the preferredembodiment of the inven tion,'I have arranged the operating mechafnismso as toiimp art to the cloth engaging plates or fingers,-a plurality-ofquick recip- Li rocating-movements for each penetration of the needle inthe sewing operation, the cloth being manipulated-during the action ofthe feed as well' ias during the penetration ofthc needle. i 'myinvention may be'--f ully understood I, will first-describe the same Inorder that V journaled in the ha with reference to the accompanyingdrawin'gs, and afterward point out the novelty more particularly in theannexed claims.

In sald drawings, Figure I-ishjfront ele-' 'vation of my improvedsewing" machine; thesame.

55 and 6 6 of Fig.4. Fig. 7,,is an err-.-

larged' detail, horizontal, sectional'yiew, and

Fig. 8 is an enlarged detail, front lelevation.

of the eccentric operatingm'echani'smof said work manipulating jaws or:-fing er's', Fig. 9

is a detail perspective view of af'fpiece of work, such as performed bythe improved machine. Fig. 1.0 is a detail view of a slightmodification.

The machine is built upon any suitable frame, such as shown in which 1is a base and 2the usual sewing machine arm, extending-up from the base.Journaled in the arm 2 and in the usual bearing standards upon the base-1, is the main shaft 5 which extends horizontally and longitudinallythrough the machine and is provided at one .endwith the fly wheel 6and-the main driving pulley '7. At .thelopposite end of the shaft 5 ismounted a rotary hook (not shown) v of theordinary stitch-formingmechanism, or, if preferred, the ordinary rotary shuttle of well knownform may be suitably mounted upon the shaft 5. y l

lOis a common form of ,needle barcarrying the usual needle 11, operatingin bearingslQ of the arm 2, and actuzited by the usual rockeilever 13,journaled upon the arm-2 at 14, and driven by the eccentric link'mechanism actuated by the eccentric 16 upon the shaft5. I

20 i'sa cloth supporting plate of any shitable design, rigidly mountedupon one of the bearing standards of the machine frame.

25 is theusual feed dog operating in the slots of the cloth supportingpl teau and .rlgidlymounted at 2t) upon the horizontal rocker arm 27,which is journaled upon bearing pin ZS carried in t g' i ipe-lyeml ofthe vertical rocker 111111329. Mn l till'lithf at its lower end thebearing pix .30 suitably se fra-lne of'tl inzu-hinc. The forward andback movement of rnglwr arm 29.1w: effected by means occ'cntrio 35 uponshaft?) and eccentric link 36 v Operating upon the eccentric and pivotedat its opposite end upon the ournal pin 28. Up and down movements ofrocker arm 27 are effected by'the cam 40 on shaft 5 "and the .arm 41projecting from rocker arm 27 and resting upon the cam -10.

45 isv the usual spring actuated presser foot mounted upon the verticalrod 16, which has bearings in the sewing machine frame arm and isactuatedand controlled to cooperate with the work supporting plate andfeed dog in the usual manner.

Thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms above described are of thecommon construction in sewing machines in general use today. Theirspecific form is not essential to the present invention but they aredescribed only as illustrating the principles of the necessary elementsof the 1m-. proved machine. the novelty m which comprises the.combination with suitable work feeding and stitch-forming mechanisms ofdevices for engaging the upper and lower layers of work adjacent to aturned seam and manipulating the work to roll the layers back and forthupon the seam to cause the seam to be brought as closely as possibleinto alinement with theturned edges of the work. I

is a forward section or extension of the cloth supporting plate .mountedupon a bracket arm .51, which extends up from the base 1 of the. machineframe. This plate section 50 is separated from the main cloth supportingplate QOto form a space in the plane of feed for the operation of thecloth manipulating plates or fingers which will now be described.

is a bracket horn projecting up from the base 1 of the machine framebetween the I feed plates 20 and 50 and upon the inner side of the lineoffeed.

beneath the plane of feed-1T he forward face of the horn and head 56constie tutes a guide surface for thetransversely reciprocating clot-hmanlpulatmgplates or fingers.

60 and 61 are the cloth manipulating plates extending longitudinally of.the, ma-

chine at the front. These plates 60 and 61 are supported with. theirvertical faces adjacent to their jaw endsv against the guide frontfaceof the horn-55 and head The winder plate. 60 is formed .at its outer endwith a horizontal .cloth engaging ]flW: 65,

-. .toreiceivezan antiefriction roll 67.;supported vwhose cloth engagingsurface is ribbed or serrated as shown at' 65 A horizontal slot uponiapin, .68.,which is mounted in an .opening, 69.of thehead. 56. This plate60 reciprocates transyersely' of the line of feed upon the-anti-frictionroller 67.

This bracket horn. 55 has a head or enlargement 56. pro ecting j 63 ofplate .61.

A guide plate, shaped to correspond with the horn 55 and head 56 issecured to the horn and head by means of pins 68 and 75, the heads 68and of said pins engaging the guide plate 70 forholding it in place. andsaid pins entering the openings 69 of head 56 and '76 of horn55 andbeing held .therein by set screws 77 and 78. I prefer to employ thecylindrical pins (38 and 75 held by set screws 77 and 7 8 for securingthe guide plate 70 in place, since by these means I am able to securethe plate 70 in the exact position desired for confining and guiding theplate 60 in proper position. without danger of binding a it too ClOSQlagainst the'plate. By these means there is less chance of an unskilledoperator destroying the adjustment of the guiding plate 70 as wouldpossibly happen were ordinary set screws employed for securing the plate70 in place.

The cloth engaging plate 61v is formed at its free end with a horizontaljaw 62 which is presented above the plane of feed in operative relationto the under jaw of plate 60. The cloth engaging face of the jaw 62 isformed with ribs or serrations 62 similar to those of the jaw 65. Theribs or ser rations of the two cloth engaging jaws extend approximatelyparallel with the line of feed, but in some cases I have found itdesirable to form 'them on a slight angle to the line of feed to give aslight stretching action to the upper and lower layers of cloth awayfrom the line offseam during the moments that the jaws are in engagementwith the cloth, while the feed is taking place. This inclination oftheribs of the cloth engaging jaws to the line of feed is illustrated ,inFig. 10 of th e'drawings.

80 is a limit pin formed with eccentric heads 81and 82'at its inner andouter ends. .The eccentric. heads of this limit pin rest in the circularrecess 83 of born 55 and circular opening 8& of the guide plate 70. soas to support thecentralbearing portion of 'the pin between horn 55 andplate 70 in'position to engage the horizontal guide edge The pin 80supports the plate 61 in its reciprocating movements in proper relationto the lower plate '60 when there is no work in the machine. The pin 81has a niche 85 in'i'ts outer end by means ofwhich it can be turned inits support to raise or lower the central bearing portion of the pin soas to. present cloth engaging jaw 62farther away or closer to the clothengaging jaw 65. This adjustment-is not essen- The plates 60 and 61have, adjacent to J 9 collar 110. In the rotation of the the jaws 62 i Ito suit the their jaw ends, rearwardly presented lugs 90 and 91, whichare connected by a contractile spring 95 which yieldingly holds and 65together, and allows the 62 to automatically adjust itself thickness ofthe work presented between the jaws.

The cloth manipulating plates 60 and 61 upper aw are provided at theirinner ends with eccenitric drivlng mechanism for impartlng to them rapidreciprocating movements in opposite directions. The preferred form ofsuch eccentric operating mechanism is illus- '60is formed at its tratedin the drawings and shown in particular detail in Figs. 7 -and 8. Theplate 'n'ner end with an integral circular strap or ring 100, whichrests upon a cylindrical collar 101 against an ancentric 105 nularflange 102, to which it is-secured by a hexagonal nut 103, screwed uponthe threaded portion 104 of the collar 101. This collar 101 encirclesand operates upon an ecsecured to a shaft 106 freely jou'rnaled in thehorizontal bearing 107 of the machine frame. A pin 108 passes throughthe eccentric 105 and shaft 106 for securing the eccentric in place uponthe shaft, the collar 101 extending over the pin 108, so as to-preventits accidental displacement. The collar placement upon the eccentric 105by an outer I centric, then the ed upon the shaft and the outer membermountedupon'its eccentric and the whole mechanism secured in place bythe outer collar 110, mounted upon the 106 and secured by 0nd eccentric115,

end of shaft a setscrew 111.

- Formed integrally with the eccentric 105 and ofi'set therefromdiametrically, is a secupon which is mounted a collar 116, formed withan annular flange 117 and secured upon this collar.116 is the strap orring 120 formed integral with the inner end of the upper clothmanipulating plate 61. A nut 121 confines the ring 120 against theflange 117 of collar 116. In as-, sembling the eccentric operatingmechanism jilst described, it will be observed that the inner member isfirst mounted upon its ecdouble eccentric is mountshaft 106 theconnected eccentrics 105 and 115 rotate in the ringslOO and 1200f plates60 and 61,

Y to cause said plates It will be understood that the main driv-Qauxiliary driving pul ing pulley 7 and 125 are so proportioned withregard ower mecha ism, that operates them, L the shaft 106 will bedriven much more idly than the main shaft 5 of the mac n I have found indemonstrating my im Jve that anachine that excellent results: p ii @91 ia i byoperatmg the shaft 91 06 ing mechanism whil The machineof 101 isheld against dishis scam in place is pi'es'ented in he machine wlth theupper and l'qw' r; lay 'lfof cloth turned into approximately the j 're dposition. The machineisffst artedW" engaged by the feedin and by thecloth, ailiplila-tin jfii A the work is fed in o "the machinegfthe jaws62 and 65 rapidly" ove backfandforth upon the upper and lowe layersof'cloth' to effect a rolling of the "ork upon thei seam. In practice Ifind'it; es'irable't iih art about 4 of these rolling 'ove ing strokeand abo ti f mo're' movements during' the" pe let needle. This roll i gof tl" the se in causes [the cloth t from he seami and; in in lin withthe oi xp os of the upper andjlowe sition he work ishe echanism designedfor the)" the machine of my appl' v eferred to, Serial- No. 865,5 commonprincipleuinv olv A m mach nes'in that both efl'ect the Sp g upper andlower layers of ti} 'a fromh the seam, soa s to bring the! oselyj'aspossible to the folded edges ofthelayers of cloth. Aside from these ,vfeat ures,however, which are common to both, achines,,there is animportant novel principled involved, in the machineoffjmyprese thapplication, in that thejcl' oth"engaging members of the presentmachine effect a ,rolling of the work upon the tiii'nedseamlmeffectingilie desired result. 1;;

I claim: a machine 5. stitching 1. In a'sewing p5 turned seams, thecombination with suitable work feeding mechanism, and suitablestitchformingmechan' f QilIlSwildilPted to engage theturned ayermaterial and roll each-of saidlayerstbac and forth upon the seamrlipppsit directions for the purpose; 1th.; {gn- I 2. In a sewing achinefonfstitching turned seams, the com nation .itli suitable work feedigfmehanism,

ofth e. can be I work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch formingmechanism, of ,means adapted to' engage the turned layersofmaterialabove and below and roll the same back and forth upon the seamline in opposite'directions during the feeding operation.

4. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch 1 formingmechanism, of means adapted to j engage the turned. layers of materialabove and below and roll the turned layers back and forth upon the seamline in'opp osite '(llI'GCtlOIlS during the operation of thestitchforming mechanism.

5. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of apair of oppositely acting clothengaging members engaging the workabove and below theplane of feed adjacent to the seam line and means forre-v ciprocating said members transversely of the line offeed in opposeddirections. I

6. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch forming mechanism,of a pair ofopposi-tely acting cloth engaging members engaging the workabove and below the plane of feed adjacent to the seam line meansforrelatively adjusting said members, and means for operating saidmembers in opposed directions.

7.1 In a sewing machine for stitching turn ed seams, the combinationwith suitable,

work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch forming mechanism, of apairof cloth engaging members movable transversely of the line of feed andengaging the work above and below the plane of feed, yielding meansmaintaining the operative relation of said cloth engaging rm'embers, andoperating means for oppositely reciprocating said cloth engaging membersin opposite directions.

8. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination. withsuitable work feeding mechanism, and suitable stitch formmg mechanism,of a pan of cloth ena in members movable transversely of the C b.

line of feed and engaging the work above :andbelow the plane-of feed, aspring yieldingl'y maintaining the ope-rative relation of said clothengaging me nbers, means for rel- --atively -,adj1 sting; @sa'id;Jmembers, and operatm'g;

ITGtIIlSiiifQI oppositely reciprocating said-wclothnerigaging membersto, roll the I turned seams, the,

work vback audio 9. In" asewinrt -htupon; the seam-line;

v or stitching 1th suitable work; vfeeding mecha a1 and su formingmechanism, of a p an 'ploth 'en ,ae apted to engage the work abovefandbelow the; of feed, means f uidin stea j an angle toth'e direction meansfor reciprocating said jaws transversely of the lineof feed in opposeddirections.

V 10. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combinationwith suitable wor I feeding mechanism and suitable stitch formingmechanism, .of a guiding horn arranged adjacent to the line of feed, apair of cloth engaging plates operating in contact with said guidinghorn, and formed with cloth engaging jaws, means for coinining saidplates upon said horn, andmeans for reciprocating said plates-inopposite directions.

' 11. In a sewing machine forv stitching turned seams, the combinationwith a suitable frame, work feeding.mechanism, and stitch formingmechanism, of a guiding horn projecting from saidframe adjacent to thevline of feed, a lower. clothengaging plate formed with a work engagingjaw, a guide upon said horn engaging said lower plate for supporting itsjaw beneath the plane of feed, an upper cloth engaging plate formed witha aw, a guide upon said horn engaging said upper plate for presentingthe jaw of the upper plate in operative relation to the jaw of the lowerplate, a spring acting upon said upper plate for yieldingly holding itin position, and means forreciprocating said plates in oppositedirections.

12. In a sewing machine, thecombination with a suitable frame, workfeeding mechanism and stitch forming mechanism, of a guide horn mountedupon said frame adj acent to the line of feed, a pair of'cloth en,gaging members guiding upon said horn and adapted to engage the workabove and below the plane of feed, a guide plate removablv attached tosaid horn for confining said members in operative position, means forrelatively adjusting said cloth engaging members, and means 'for'operating said members. I

1 3.In a sewing machine for. stitching turned seams, thecombination-with a suitable frame, work feeding mechanism, and stitchforming mechanism, of a pair of cloth engaging plates movabletransversely of the line of 'feed and engaging th'e"workiabove and belowthe plane of feed,.a guiding horn mounted upon said frame for supportingsaid members adjacent to the work. and eccentric driving mechanismacting upon said members for reciprocating them in engage ment'with thework.

. turned seams, the combination with suitable work feeding mechanism andsuitable stitch I forming mechanism, of a pair of cloth-eni tz ble.stitch Y W jof feed and engaging the work above and below the plane offeed, said jaws being gaging jaws movable transversely of the lineforinediwith ribs or serrations extending at of feed, and means forreciprocating said jaws in engagement with the work. Q

15. In a sewing machine for stitching turned seams, the combination withsuitable workfeeding mechanism and Suitable stitch' forming mechanism,of a pair of itransversely reciprocating plates having cloth. en-

' trio ends resting in sockets in the machine frame and means foroperating said plates.

16. In a sewing, machine for stitching turned seams, the combinationwith suitable Work feeding mechanism and suitable stitch formingmechanism, of a pair ofoppositely "acting cloth engaging members movabletransversel of the line of feed and engaging the work a ove and belowthe plane of feed, I a main operating mechanism for the work' mechanism,and an auxiliary operating mechanism for saidclothengaging members,

feeding mechanism and stitch forming. 1

said main and auxiliary operating mecha- I nisms being arranged toimpart a plurality v of active-movements to the cloth engaging membersfor each complete feeding and 30 stitch forming operation.

iCI-IARLES A; DEARBQRN. Witnesses:

WM. E. KNIGHT, WM. A OOURTLAND.

